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(Left):
Cream Silk Qipao with Turquoise Floral Brocade Trim
Made in Shanghai, Republic Period, circa 1935–1945
Material: Silk
Approximate Measurements: Shoulders: 17 1/3 inches (44 cm), Length (Collar to Hem): 42 1/8 inches (107 cm), Bust: 31 1/2 inches (80 cm), Waist: 29 7/8 inches (76 cm).
This elegant qipao is fashioned from lustrous cream-colored silk, whose smooth surface and subtle sheen create an impression of understated refinement. The soft ivory tone reflects the restrained sophistication favored by fashionable Chinese women during the Republican period. Cut in the mature qipao style, the dress features a high standing collar, fitted waist, and graceful silhouette that accentuates the natural lines of the body while maintaining an air of dignity and poise.
The most distinctive feature of the garment is its turquoise floral brocade trim. Applied to the collar, curved front yoke, sleeve edges, side slits, and hem, the trim is woven with delicate floral motifs in pale gold and ivory tones against a vibrant turquoise ground. The elegant contrast between the cool blue-green borders and the warm cream silk creates a refined decorative effect, bringing visual richness to an otherwise restrained design.
Particularly striking is the curved decorative yoke across the upper chest. Framed entirely by the floral brocade, this feature introduces a graceful architectural element to the garment while drawing attention to the neckline and shoulders. The design recalls traditional Chinese ornamental borders yet is integrated seamlessly into the streamlined silhouette of the modern qipao, reflecting the successful fusion of tradition and contemporary fashion that characterized Republican-era dress.
Unlike more heavily ornamented examples, this qipao relies on the beauty of its materials and carefully placed decorative accents rather than elaborate embroidery or bold patterns. The luminous cream silk serves as a serene backdrop for the richly woven floral trim, creating a harmonious balance between simplicity and elegance. Such a design would have appealed to women who appreciated refinement, quality craftsmanship, and tasteful decoration.
Combining luxurious silk, sophisticated tailoring, and beautifully executed brocade ornamentation, this qipao exemplifies the elegance of Republican-period Chinese fashion. Its restrained palette, graceful proportions, and decorative floral borders embody the timeless beauty and cultural sophistication that made the qipao one of the most enduring symbols of modern Chinese womanhood.
(左边):
乳白色丝绸镶蓝地花卉织锦边旗袍
民国时期,上海,约1937–1945年
材质:丝绸
尺寸:肩宽17 1/3英寸(44厘米),衣长(领至下摆)42 1/8英寸(107厘米),胸围31 1/2英寸(80厘米),腰围29 7/8英寸(76厘米)。
本件旗袍以乳白色丝绸制成,色泽温润柔和,丝质细腻光洁,在光线映照下散发出珍珠般的莹润光泽。整体色调素雅宁静,呈现出民国时期高级女装所追求的含蓄与典雅之美。修长流畅的剪裁配合高立领与贴身廓形,展现出成熟时期旗袍优美而端庄的线条感。
全件作品最引人注目的特点在于蓝绿色织锦镶边的运用。领口、前胸弧形装饰、袖缘、开衩及下摆均饰以统一的花卉织锦边饰。织锦底色呈明亮的湖蓝至青绿色调,其上满织浅金色与米白色花卉纹样,花叶舒展繁密,层层相接,形成富有装饰性的连续图案。明快的蓝绿色与温润的乳白色形成鲜明而优雅的对比,使整件作品在素净之中增添华丽气息。
尤为特别的是前胸采用弧形如意式装饰边框设计。自肩部向胸前自然延伸,与立领形成完整而统一的视觉结构,不仅丰富了服装层次,也使观者的目光自然集中于领部与上身区域。这种设计既保留了传统中式服装装饰趣味,又符合民国时期旗袍强调简洁轮廓与现代美感的发展趋势。
旗袍整体并未采用大面积纹饰,而是以纯净的乳白色丝绸作为主体,通过织锦花边作为主要装饰元素。这样的设计体现出民国时期上流社会女性对于精致材质与细节工艺的重视。华美的织锦边饰与素雅的丝绸底色相互映衬,形成繁简得宜的视觉效果。
本件作品兼具传统装饰艺术与现代旗袍剪裁特色。乳白色丝绸所展现的宁静高雅气质,与蓝绿色花卉织锦边饰的精美华丽相得益彰,充分体现了民国时期都市女性追求优雅、精致与文化品味的审美风尚。它不仅是一件服饰作品,更是传统工艺与现代时尚融合发展的生动见证。
(Right): Pink Silk Qipao with Embroidered Yoke
Made in Shanghai, Republic Period, circa 1935–1945
Material: Silk, Embroidery
Approximate Measurements: Shoulders: 17 1/3 inches (44 cm), Length (Collar to Hem): 42 1/8 inches (107 cm), Bust: 34 5/8 inches (88 cm), Waist: 29 7/8 inches (76 cm).
This elegant qipao is fashioned from vibrant pink silk, its luminous surface enriched by fine vertical ribbing that creates subtle texture and enhances the fabric’s natural sheen. The dress follows the classic silhouette of the mature Republican-period qipao, featuring a high standing collar, sleeveless construction, and a graceful, body-skimming cut that reflects the refined taste of urban Chinese women during the 1930s and 1940s.
The most distinctive feature of the garment is its embroidered shoulder yoke, inspired by the traditional Chinese yunjian (cloud collar). Executed on a bright turquoise-blue silk ground, the yoke is bordered with a continuous geometric key-fret pattern and richly embroidered with peacocks, flowering branches, and auspicious floral motifs. In Chinese decorative tradition, the peacock symbolizes beauty, dignity, and prosperity, while the floral designs convey wishes for happiness and abundance. The vibrant embroidery creates a striking visual contrast against the pink silk body of the dress.
The combination of brilliant pink and turquoise reflects the continued appreciation for vivid color and decorative elegance among affluent Chinese women during the Republican era. At the same time, the streamlined qipao silhouette demonstrates the modern fashion sensibilities that emerged in Shanghai and other cosmopolitan centers during the period.
Blending traditional Chinese embroidery with the fashionable qipao form, this dress exemplifies the harmonious meeting of heritage and modernity that characterized women’s dress in Republican China. Elegant, refined, and richly decorative, it stands as a vivid representation of feminine sophistication and cultural identity during a transformative period in Chinese history.
(右边):
粉红地绣花云肩式旗袍
民国时期,上海,约1935–1945年
材质:丝绸、刺绣
尺寸:肩宽44厘米,衣长(自领至下摆)107厘米,胸围88厘米,腰围76厘米。
本件旗袍以鲜艳柔和的粉红色丝绸制成,色彩明快而富有女性气息。整体采用修长贴体的民国旗袍式样,高立领、无袖设计以及流畅的剪裁共同塑造出优雅端庄的女性轮廓。面料表面带有细密纵向纹理,在光线映照下呈现出柔和而富有层次的丝绸光泽。
最引人注目之处在于领部及肩部装饰。旗袍采用仿清代云肩形式的绣花肩饰,以湖蓝色丝绸为地,周围饰以白色回纹边框,中央绣有孔雀、花卉及折枝纹样。孔雀开屏寓意富贵吉祥,花卉纹饰则象征繁荣与美好愿望,色彩丰富而不失雅致,为整件作品增添浓厚的传统装饰意味。
粉红色衣身与湖蓝色绣花云肩形成鲜明而和谐的色彩对比,使作品兼具民国时装的现代美感与中国传统服饰的装饰特色。既体现了当时上海都市女性对于时尚的追求,也反映出传统审美在现代旗袍设计中的延续与创新。
本件作品色彩华丽而不失典雅,工艺精细,具有鲜明的时代特色,是民国时期融合传统装饰元素与现代旗袍风格的代表性作品之一。
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This group of twenty-one qipaos is from the former collection of the Oakland Museum of California and has been generously deaccessioned by the museum. Proceeds from their sale will support the museum’s research and public education programs. The qipaos will be featured in Unbound Elegance: Chinese Women in the San Francisco Bay Area, 1900–1960, on view at Michaan’s Auctions, California, from June 14–19, 2026, and are illustrated in the accompanying exhibition catalogue of the same title, published by iCultures Publications. These two qipao are illustrated on pp. 123-124, and pp.121-122.
本组二十一件旗袍原为奥克兰加州博物馆(Oakland Museum of California)旧藏,由该馆释藏提供。拍卖所得将用于支持博物馆的研究与公共教育项目。本组旗袍将于2026年6月14日至19日在加州Michaan's Auctions举办的《不羁的优雅:1900—1960年旧金山湾区华人女性》展览中展出,并收录于iCultures Publications出版的同名展览图录。这两件旗袍著录于图录第123-124, 和121-122页。
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