Chinese Green Silk Damask Qipao with Matching Capelet
Made in Shanghai, Republic Period, circa 1932–1934

Material: Silk Damask and Silk Satin; Embroidered Appliqué Decoration.

Approximate Measurements: Shoulders: 16 3/4 inches (44 cm), Length (Collar to Hem): 51 1/4 inches (133 cm), Bust: 28 1/2 inches (72.4 cm), Waist: 30.7 inches (78 cm).

This refined ensemble consists of a fitted silk damask qipao accompanied by a matching short over-jacket or capelet, a fashionable combination frequently seen among affluent urban women in Shanghai during the early 1930s. Executed in a delicate shade of pale green, the garment embodies the elegant restraint and sophisticated craftsmanship that characterized the golden age of Republican-period dress.

The silk damask ground is woven with an all-over floral pattern of scrolling blossoms and foliage, rendered in subtly contrasting shades of green and ivory. Against this softly shimmering surface, embroidered appliqué decoration in cream, yellow, peach, and green silk provides striking visual accents. Symmetrically arranged floral motifs adorn the collar, shoulders, sleeve edges, and lower corners of the skirt, creating a carefully balanced composition that reflects both traditional Chinese decorative principles and the refined taste of Shanghai's modern elite.

Particularly noteworthy are the hand-crafted silk knot buttons positioned along the diagonal opening. Executed in elegant floral forms and integrated harmoniously with the embroidered appliqué work, these closures demonstrate the high level of hand craftsmanship associated with custom-made Shanghai qipaos. The appliqué borders, formed from repeating diamond-shaped elements enclosing contrasting centers, further enhance the garment's decorative richness while emphasizing its architectural lines.

The accompanying short capelet is an especially significant feature. Such matching outer garments became fashionable during the early 1930s, when designers experimented with combining traditional Chinese dress forms with contemporary silhouettes inspired by international fashion trends. The capelet softens the transition between shoulder and torso while adding an additional layer of elegance and formality, making the ensemble suitable for social gatherings, receptions, and other public occasions.

Dating to approximately 1932–1934, this ensemble represents an important transitional moment in the evolution of the qipao. While retaining traditional elements such as the high standing collar, hand-worked pankou, and symmetrical decorative scheme, it also reflects the increasing sophistication of Shanghai couture and the emergence of the qipao as a distinctly modern expression of Chinese femininity. As such, it stands as an excellent example of the refined dress culture that made Shanghai the undisputed fashion capital of Republican China.

绿色提花绸旗袍配披肩式短外套
民国时期，上海，约1932–1934年

材质：提花丝绸、缎面丝绸；贴绣装饰（Appliqué Embroidery）

尺寸：肩宽 16 3/4 英寸（44厘米）；衣长（领至下摆）51 1/4 英寸（133厘米）；胸围 28 1/2 英寸（72.4厘米）；腰围 30.7 英寸（78厘米）。

本件旗袍由一袭修身长旗袍与配套披肩式短外套组成，为二十世纪三十年代初上海高级时装中颇具代表性的组合形式。整体以淡绿色丝绸制成，色调柔和清雅，散发出含蓄而典雅的都市气息。旗袍采用高立领、短袖及修长贴身的轮廓设计，充分体现了民国时期上海女性对于现代时尚与优雅气质的追求。

衣身以提花丝绸织造而成，满饰缠枝花卉暗纹。纹样采用同色系浅绿与米白色经纬交织，在光线变化下呈现出若隐若现的层次感，既富装饰效果，又不失素雅格调。与织纹相映成趣的是领口、肩部、袖缘及裙摆下方精心配置的贴绣装饰。绣花以浅绿色、米白色、鹅黄色与粉桃色丝线绣成，花叶舒展自然，布局严格对称，体现出中国传统装饰艺术讲究均衡与秩序的审美特点。

旗袍前襟饰有数对手工盘制的丝质盘扣，盘扣以花形构成，与周围贴绣花卉相互呼应。无论是盘扣的造型、贴绣的层次，还是滚边的处理，均展现出当时上海高级裁缝与绣工精湛的制作水平。裙摆两侧开衩及下缘另饰连续菱格式贴绣边饰，与领口及肩部装饰形成统一的视觉节奏，使整体设计更加完整而富于变化。

尤为难得的是，原配的短外套至今仍完整保存。此类披肩式或短坎肩式外套是三十年代上海时装的重要特色之一，常见于高级定制服装。穿着时既可增加层次感，又能强化肩部轮廓，使整体造型更加端庄优雅。这种旗袍与外套成套制作的形式，反映了当时上海作为远东时尚中心所形成的独特审美风尚。

约1932至1934年间，上海旗袍正处于由传统袍服向现代高级时装转变的重要阶段。本件作品既保留了中国传统服饰的立领、盘扣与对称装饰，又融入了现代剪裁与都市时尚元素，堪称早期上海旗袍风格的优秀代表作。其精美的提花织造、细致的贴绣工艺以及罕见的完整配套外套，使其成为研究民国时期女性服饰与上海时尚文化的重要实例。

Size Small. Staining under sleeves, some soiling at collar. For condition report, please contact the Asian Art Department.