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Deep Blue Silk Satin Qipao with White Floral Design
Made in Shanghai, Republic Period, circa 1932–1934
Material: Silk Satin
Approximate Measurements: Shoulders: 16 1/2 inches (42 cm), Length (Collar to Hem): 53 1/2 inches (136 cm), Bust: 29 3/4 inches (75.4 cm), Waist: 29 1/2 inches (75 cm).
This elegant qipao is fashioned from luminous deep blue silk satin and decorated throughout with stylized ivory-white floral and foliate motifs. The striking contrast between the rich blue ground and the flowing white pattern creates a bold yet sophisticated visual effect, exemplifying the refined modern aesthetic that emerged in Shanghai during the early 1930s. With its high standing collar, asymmetrical right-side closure, and slender body-skimming silhouette, the garment reflects the transformation of the qipao from a relatively loose traditional robe into a fashionable expression of modern femininity.
Particularly captivating is the all-over floral design. The elongated leaves and blossoms are rendered in a graceful, flowing manner, appearing almost as if stirred by a gentle breeze. Rather than depicting flowers in a naturalistic fashion, the designer employed rhythmic, stylized lines that emphasize movement and elegance. The sweeping foliage echoes the elongated contours of the garment itself, creating a harmonious dialogue between pattern and form. As the wearer moves, the silk satin catches the light and the flowing design seems to come alive, transforming the qipao into a dynamic composition of motion and grace.
This aesthetic perfectly reflects the evolving ideal of feminine beauty in Republican-era Shanghai. The qipao was no longer merely a traditional garment but a vehicle through which modern women expressed individuality, sophistication, and confidence. The elongated silhouette accentuates the natural lines of the body, while the animated floral motifs lend the garment a sense of vitality and freedom. Much like the fashionable women depicted in Shanghai calendar posters and illustrated magazines of the period, the wearer would have projected an image that was at once elegant, cosmopolitan, and full of life.
The front opening is adorned with multiple hand-crafted silk pankou (Chinese knot buttons), executed in contrasting blue and ivory silk cord. These finely worked closures serve both practical and decorative functions, adding texture and visual interest to the garment. Together with the meticulously applied piping along the collar, opening, and side slits, the pankou demonstrate the exceptional craftsmanship associated with Shanghai's finest custom dressmakers.
Judging from the quality of the materials, the sophistication of the design, and the precision of its construction, this qipao was likely produced by one of Shanghai's most prestigious couture houses or bespoke workshops. Its elegant proportions, fluid decorative pattern, and exquisitely executed handwork represent the highest standards of Shanghai fashion between 1932 and 1934. During this period, Shanghai was celebrated as the “Paris of the East,” where Chinese tradition and international modernity converged to create one of the most distinctive fashion cultures of the twentieth century.
As an outstanding example of early 1930s Shanghai couture, this qipao embodies the successful fusion of traditional Chinese craftsmanship and modern design. The flowing floral motifs and graceful silhouette work together to create an image of feminine beauty that is refined, confident, and vibrant. It stands as a remarkable testament to the artistry, sophistication, and cosmopolitan spirit that defined the golden age of Shanghai fashion.
深蓝地白花纹丝缎旗袍
民国时期,上海,约1932–1934年
材质:丝缎(Silk Satin)
尺寸:肩宽 16 1/2 英寸(42厘米);衣长(领至下摆)53 1/2 英寸(136厘米);胸围 29 3/4 英寸(75.4厘米);腰围 29 1/2 英寸(75厘米)。
本件旗袍以浓郁鲜明的宝蓝色丝缎制成,通体饰以浅米白色花叶纹样,色彩对比强烈而和谐,展现出民国时期上海高级时装独有的现代气息与优雅格调。高立领、右衽斜襟及修长贴体的轮廓,体现了二十世纪三十年代初上海旗袍逐渐成熟的典型风貌。此时的旗袍已从民初较为宽松的形制转变为强调女性身姿与线条美感的现代服装,成为都市女性时尚与身份的重要象征。
衣身满饰连续分布的花叶纹样,枝叶纤长舒展,花瓣轻盈飘逸,仿佛微风吹拂下轻轻摇曳的植物。设计者并未采用传统写实花卉的表现方式,而是以流畅而富于韵律的线条构成装饰图案,使整个纹样充满流动感与生命力。花叶向不同方向自然伸展,犹如迎风舞动,与旗袍修长流畅的轮廓形成巧妙呼应。当穿着者行走之时,衣料随着步履轻轻摆动,花叶纹样仿佛随风摇曳,使服装与人体共同构成一幅充满动感的画面。
这种设计正体现了三十年代上海时装文化对于女性美的理解。旗袍不再仅仅是传统服饰,而成为展现现代女性气质的重要媒介。修长的衣身勾勒出优雅曲线,而舒展飘逸的花叶纹则赋予整体一种轻盈自由的节奏感,使穿着者在端庄之中流露出迷人的风采。正如当时上海月份牌与时装画中所呈现的都市女性形象一般,既具有东方女性的含蓄典雅,又散发出丰美灵动、充满生命力的现代魅力。花叶与身姿相互映衬,形成一种自然、优雅而富于韵律的美感,这正是上海旗袍艺术最为迷人的特质之一。
前襟及侧开襟处饰有多组手工盘制丝质盘扣(pankou),盘扣以蓝白双色丝线盘结而成,造型小巧精致,立体感鲜明。领口处盘扣尤为考究,与细致的滚边共同构成视觉焦点。盘扣不仅承担衣物开合功能,更是中国传统服饰工艺的重要体现。其精细程度反映出当时上海高级定制旗袍对于工艺品质的严格要求。
从面料品质、纹样设计及制作工艺观察,本件作品当出自上海最负盛名的高级时装店或定制工坊。无论是修长优雅的整体轮廓、富于韵律感的满地花叶纹样,还是制作精细的手工盘扣与滚边工艺,均展现出1932至1934年间上海高级女装所达到的顶尖水平。彼时的上海被誉为“东方巴黎”,汇聚中西文化与国际时尚潮流,而旗袍则成为这一时代最具代表性的服饰象征。此类作品不仅是精美的服装,更是上海现代都市文化繁荣时期的重要见证。
作为三十年代初上海旗袍艺术的代表作品之一,本件旗袍将传统工艺与现代设计巧妙结合。流动舒展的花叶纹样与女性修长婀娜的身姿相互辉映,共同塑造出一种丰美而灵动、优雅而自信的现代女性形象。这种兼具东方韵致与都市风尚的审美理想,正是1930年代上海旗袍最迷人的魅力所在,也使本件作品成为民国服饰艺术中的精品之作。
Size Small. Soiling on sleeves. For condition report, please contact the Asian Art Department.
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This group of twenty-one qipaos is from the former collection of the Oakland Museum of California and has been generously deaccessioned by the museum. Proceeds from their sale will support the museum’s research and public education programs. The qipaos will be featured in Unbound Elegance: Chinese Women in the San Francisco Bay Area, 1900–1960, on view at Michaan’s Auctions, California, from June 14–19, 2026, and are illustrated in the accompanying exhibition catalogue of the same title, published by iCultures Publications. This qipao is illustrated on pp. 101-102.
本组二十一件旗袍原为奥克兰加州博物馆(Oakland Museum of California)旧藏,由该馆释藏提供。拍卖所得将用于支持博物馆的研究与公共教育项目。本组旗袍将于2026年6月14日至19日在加州Michaan's Auctions举办的《不羁的优雅:1900—1960年旧金山湾区华人女性》展览中展出,并收录于iCultures Publications出版的同名展览图录。本件旗袍著录于图录第101-102页。
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