Pink Figured Silk Qipao

Made in Shanghai, Republic Period, circa 1937–1945

Material: Figured Silk

Approximate Measurements: Shoulders: 16 1/2 inches (42 cm), Length (Collar to Hem): 42 1/8 inches (107 cm), Bust: 35 1/2 inches (90 cm), Waist: 28 3/8 inches (72 cm).

This elegant qipao is fashioned from lustrous pink figured silk woven with an all-over floral pattern in pale ivory silk threads. The rich pink ground, enhanced by the soft sheen of the silk, creates a luxurious and refined visual effect, while the woven floral decoration lends depth and texture to the surface. Unlike the simpler wartime qipao intended primarily for practicality, this example reflects a more formal and sophisticated style, suitable for social gatherings, family celebrations, and important occasions.

The garment follows the mature Shanghai qipao silhouette of the late Republican period, featuring a high standing collar, asymmetrical front closure, fitted waist, and graceful skirt. The carefully tailored form accentuates the wearer’s natural figure while maintaining the dignity and restraint characteristic of Chinese dress. Long sleeves further enhance its elegant appearance and suggest use during cooler seasons or formal events.

Particularly noteworthy is the elaborate floral decoration woven directly into the fabric. Large chrysanthemums, peonies, flowering vines, and scrolling foliage unfold across the surface in a harmonious composition. These motifs, rendered in a slightly lighter tone than the pink ground, emerge and recede as the light changes, creating a subtle yet richly decorative effect. Chrysanthemums symbolize longevity and refinement, while peonies traditionally represent prosperity, beauty, and honor, making these motifs especially appropriate for garments intended to convey social grace and cultural sophistication.

The collar, front fastening, and edging are finished with matching silk trim, while the hand-crafted frog closures are executed in the same pink tone as the garment itself. The three-dimensional floral-form knots are particularly refined, combining decorative elegance with technical precision. Their harmonious integration with the surrounding textile demonstrates the exceptional craftsmanship associated with high-quality Shanghai tailoring.

Although created during the difficult years of the War of Resistance period, this qipao illustrates how many Chinese women continued to value beauty, dignity, and cultural refinement despite social uncertainty. Rather than embracing extravagance through excessive ornamentation, the garment achieves its effect through luxurious material, sophisticated woven decoration, and impeccable tailoring. It reflects the enduring desire for elegance amid adversity and offers a vivid record of the grace and resilience displayed by Chinese women during one of the most challenging periods of modern Chinese history.

The luminous pink silk, intricate floral pattern, and exquisite matching frog closures combine to create a garment of remarkable charm and refinement. More than a fashionable dress, it embodies the poise, confidence, and quiet nobility that characterized many educated and affluent Chinese women of the Republican era.

粉红地暗花丝绸旗袍

民国时期，上海，约1938–1945年

材质：暗花丝绸

尺寸：肩宽42厘米，衣长（自领至下摆）107厘米，胸围90厘米，腰围72厘米。

本件旗袍以粉红色暗花丝绸制成，色泽柔美明艳，丝绸表面光泽温润细腻，在光线映照下呈现出丰富而优雅的层次变化。通体织有浅粉白色花卉纹样，与底色形成和谐而富于变化的视觉效果。相较于抗战时期大量强调节俭与实用的素色旗袍，本件作品显然属于较为正式的礼服性质，展现出都市女性在重要社交场合中的优雅风范与审美品味。

旗袍采用民国后期上海旗袍的典型样式，高立领、右衽斜襟、修长贴体的剪裁以及自然收束的腰身，共同塑造出端庄而优美的女性轮廓。长袖设计使整体造型更显庄重典雅，也反映出当时较为正式的穿着礼仪。整体线条流畅自然，在强调女性曲线之美的同时，仍保持东方服饰所特有的含蓄与端庄。

面料上的织花装饰尤为精彩。纹样以盛开的菊花、牡丹、折枝花卉以及缠枝藤蔓组成，布局疏密有致，层层展开于衣身之上。由于采用同色系提花工艺，纹饰并不显得浓艳张扬，而是在光线流转之间若隐若现，呈现出含蓄而华美的装饰效果。牡丹历来象征富贵荣华，菊花则寓意高洁长寿，这些传统吉祥纹样不仅体现了中国装饰艺术的审美传统，也寄托了人们对于美好生活的向往。

领口、前襟及边缘均以浅粉色丝质滚边装饰，与衣身花纹相互呼应。最具特色的是保存完整的手工盘扣，其造型以盛开的花朵为设计灵感，花瓣部分采用浅色丝绸填饰，外缘则以粉色丝线精细盘结而成，形成富有层次感与立体感的花形结构。盘扣色彩与面料完全统一，使装饰与服装融为一体，充分展现出民国时期高级旗袍制作工艺对于细节与美感的高度追求。

虽然制作于抗战时期前后，但本件作品并未因时代动荡而失去对美的追求。相反，它以精美的丝绸面料、典雅的织花纹饰以及考究的工艺制作，展现出当时中国上层社会及都市女性所追求的优雅生活方式。在民族危机与社会变迁的背景下，许多女性仍然通过得体而精致的服饰维系个人尊严与文化认同。本件旗袍正是这种时代精神的生动写照。

柔和华丽的粉红色调、满地铺陈的吉祥花卉纹样以及精巧细致的花形盘扣，共同营造出一种温婉而高贵的气质。它不仅是一件精美的服装作品，更见证了民国时期中国女性在动荡年代中依然保持从容、自信与优雅的生活态度，充分体现出那个时代女性所展现出的坚韧与高贵。

Areas of wear with tears and discoloration in upper area of left sleeve. For condition report, please contact the Asian Art Department.