Blue Voided Velvet Qipao

Shanghai Wang Dixiang Tailor Shop
38 Village Road, Happy Valley, Hong Kong
Circa 1950s–1960s

Material: Blue silk satin with voided velvet decoration

Approximate Measurements: Shoulders: 15 3/4 inches (40 cm), Length (Collar to Hem): 45 1/8 inches (114.5 cm), Bust: 35 inches (89 cm), Waist: 31 1/2 inches (80 cm).

This exceptional qipao is among the finest garments in the exhibition and exemplifies the sophistication of Hong Kong couture during the 1950s and 1960s. Fashioned from brilliant cobalt-blue silk satin, the dress is distinguished by its elegant voided velvet decoration, a luxurious textile technique that creates a delicate semi-transparent effect across the surface of the fabric. Portions of the velvet pile were selectively removed during production, allowing light to pass through parts of the design and creating an interplay of opacity and transparency. As the wearer moves, the floral motifs appear to emerge and dissolve, producing a refined sense of lightness and visual depth.

The translucent floral pattern is the defining feature of this garment. Unlike ordinary printed silks, voided velvet required highly specialized weaving and finishing techniques and was generally reserved for more expensive custom-made qipaos. The semi-transparent motifs float across the vivid blue ground, creating an appearance that is at once graceful, modern, and subtly alluring. Such fabrics became especially fashionable in postwar Hong Kong, where designers combined traditional Chinese aesthetics with contemporary international tastes.

The qipao retains the classic features of mid-century Chinese dress, including a high standing collar, hand-worked frog closures, fitted tailoring, and side slits. Its elongated silhouette emphasizes elegance and poise, while the carefully executed construction demonstrates the precision associated with Hong Kong’s finest tailoring workshops. The flowing floral motifs symbolize beauty, prosperity, and renewal, themes long favored in Chinese decorative arts.

During the 1950s and 1960s, Hong Kong emerged as the leading center for the production of fashionable qipaos. Many Cantonese immigrants traveling to San Francisco and other communities in the Bay Area purchased or commissioned their finest garments in Hong Kong before crossing the Pacific. These dresses accompanied women to weddings, banquets, community celebrations, and family gatherings, serving not only as elegant attire but also as expressions of cultural identity and personal memory.

This remarkable qipao embodies the artistry of Hong Kong’s golden age of dressmaking while illustrating the enduring connections between Guangdong, Hong Kong, and San Francisco. Through its innovative textile design, exceptional craftsmanship, and graceful silhouette, it stands as a testament to the resilience, refinement, and elegance of Chinese immigrant women in the Bay Area.

蓝色烧花丝绒旗袍

上海王第祥成衣店
香港跑马地山村道三十八号
约1950–1960年代

材质：蓝色真丝缎地烧花丝绒

尺寸：肩宽15 3/4英寸（40厘米），衣长（领至下摆）45 1/8英寸（114.5厘米），胸围35英寸（89厘米），腰围31 1/2英寸（80厘米）。

此件旗袍堪称本次展览中最精美的作品之一，充分展现了1950至1960年代香港高级旗袍制作的精湛水平。旗袍以宝石蓝色真丝缎为地，通身饰以烧花丝绒工艺织成的花卉纹样。烧花工艺通过特殊处理去除部分绒面，使图案局部呈现半透明效果，形成透明与不透明交织的视觉层次。当光线照射或穿着者行走时，花纹若隐若现、轻盈飘逸，展现出极富变化的质感与光泽。

这种半透明效果正是本件旗袍最引人注目的特色。与普通印花丝绸不同，烧花丝绒的制作工艺极为复杂，需要先织出绒面，再通过化学或热处理方式去除部分绒毛，以形成通透轻薄的花纹区域。因此，这类面料通常只用于较为高档的定制旗袍。蓝色缎地之上浮现的透明花卉，既保留了传统丝绒的华贵质感，又赋予服饰轻盈灵动的现代气息，是战后香港时尚设计的重要特色之一。

旗袍采用经典立领、手工盘扣及修身长款设计，线条流畅优雅。长达114.5厘米的衣身进一步强化了修长挺拔的视觉效果，展现出二十世纪中叶都市女性追求的端庄与优雅。花卉纹样舒展流动，寓意美丽、繁荣与生生不息，也体现了中国传统装饰艺术中对于吉祥寓意的追求。

二十世纪五六十年代，香港逐渐成为华人世界高级旗袍制作中心。大量广东移民经由香港前往美国西海岸，特别是旧金山湾区，许多女性在启程前会在香港购置或定制最时兴的旗袍随身携带。这些服饰不仅是婚礼、宴会、节庆及社团活动中的重要礼服，也承载着移民家庭跨越太平洋的文化记忆与身份认同。

这件烧花丝绒旗袍不仅展现了香港黄金时代旗袍工艺与时尚美学的高度成就，也见证了广东、香港与旧金山华人社区之间持续不断的人文联系。其独特的半透明面料、精湛的制作工艺与优雅的造型，共同构成了华人女性坚韧而优雅生活方式的重要见证。

For condition report, please contact the Asian Art Department.